Osorezan: Sacred Mountains in the Shape of a Lotus

Located in Aomori Prefecture’s Shimokita Peninsula, Osorezan (which translates as “Dread Mountain”) is one of the prefecture’s must-see sights. This sacred mountain plays a large role in Japanese Buddhism and has done so for over 1,000 years.

Lake Usori

History

A dream

The story of Osorezan, which is synonymous with the Bodai-ji Temple here, started with a dream. Approximately 1200 years ago, a Japanese Buddhist priest named En’nin was studying in China. One night, he dreamt that a holy monk would come to him and tell him to return to Japan. He was to walk 30 days east of Kyoto then. The dream told him he would find a sacred mountain. Once there, he had to carve a statue of the bodhisattva Jizo and then spread Buddhism there. Long story short, he eventually found Osorezan.

He discovered a sacred area with many features that are important to Buddhism. There are eight mountains here, forming the shape of a lotus flower – a symbol of Buddhism. At the centre sits Lake Usori, and around it are 108 pools of boiling mud and water, representing the 108 worldly desires and the hells connected with them. At the same time, the white sand beach around the lake represents paradise that is obtained once you have atoned for your sins in the corresponding hells (in Buddhism, you stay a long time in the required hell to purge the sin, but you eventually leave).

Without going into too much detail, he realized this was the place he had dreamed about. He then carved a 190 cm-high statue (6 feet 3 inches) and built a hall around it.

What does Jizo represent?

Jizo corresponds to a “mother Earth”-type figure—it supports everyone no matter what and is full of compassion. He suffers so we do not have to, leading humanity to a purer world. If you believe in Japanese Buddhism, he suffers in this sulphur-ridden area to turn it into a mountainous salvation.

Osorezan Today

Over the centuries, the simple temple that Enn’n built has grown into a large temple complex that is part of the Soto sect of Buddhism. More than that, it is also spread around the volcanic rocks and Lake Usori.

Visitors visit not only the main temple complex (where they can also stay overnight for ¥15,000—two meals included) but also the surrounding area, walking among the gas vents, bubbling water ponds, and mud flats. They also take a small hike up the “hill” behind the complex, which is the peak of Mt Osore.

The area is also covered with splashes of colour of all kinds. These come from underground rocks and are drawn up by the area’s volcanic activity—it is still very much active! Fortunately, the volcano part is dormant and has not erupted in the last 10,000 years.

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Osorezan is by car. You can also go by public transport.

If you go by public transport from Aomori City, you must start with an Aomori Tetsudou train from Aomori Station to Noheji Station. There, switch to a JR East local train to Shimokita Station. This will take 2 hours 15 minutes, depending on connections.

From here, you will need to take a bus to Osorezan. You can do it as part of a tour (website in Japanese), which will take you to all of the major spots on the peninsula and costs (at the time of writing) ¥22,000.

Local buses are also available. The schedule can be obtained from the Aomori Prefectural Tourist Information Centre ASPAM in Aomori City or the Tourist Information Centre in Mutsu (where Shimokita Station is).

Entry and tips

Entry into Osorezan is ¥700 for adults. Rather than dressing as you would for other temples (e.g. shoes that you can take off easily and quickly), dress as if you are going for a hike because that is exactly what happens. The main temple is near the car park, but a big part of the experience is the pilgrimage across this volcanic landscape, stopping at alters and shrines.

Be warned that the area (including around the lake away from the temple) has a sulphuric smell, so you should be prepared for that. It will also be hot as a volcanic area, no matter the ambient temperature. I went on a day at 35°C(95°F), and it still felt warmer here than in the surrounding regions.