Kiso Fukushima is a small town in Nagano Prefecture, close to the Nakasendo Trail – the mountain trail that ran between Tokyo and Kyoto – in Nagano Prefecture. It is a beautiful town, it boasts a traditional, picturesque quarter that is not frequently visited by many travellers.

Kiso Fukushima – History

Kiso Fukushima (also called Kisofukushima) is one of the former post towns that sits on the Nakasendo, an old Edo-period (think Japanese samurai) “highway” that ran through the mountains connecting Kyoto and Tokyo. The name means “central mountain route” and runs in parallel to the Tokaido, “eastern sea road”, which runs along the coast, eventually connecting Kyoto and Tokyo. You might have heard of this route because the Shinkansen (i.e. the bullet train) runs this route today.

Like many former post towns, Kiso was a stopping point for travellers on the Nakasendo. Located at distances that could be travelled in one day (or a half day, depending on the location), these towns centred around catering to the needs of pilgrims, merchants, priests/monks and nobility who would travel on the Nakasendo. Large inns, hostels, and post offices were the focal points of the town, with supporting industries such as blacksmiths, restaurants, food establishments, shops, and entertainment springing up to cater to visitors’ needs.

Kiso Fukushima experienced its golden age (1603-1868). It was also near the centre of the Nakasendo, so it was a good place to take a longer break. As a result, it is one of the larger post towns that still exist today. Unfortunately, with the end of the Edo Period and the modernisation of Japan, post-towns saw a decline. Since 1976, efforts have been made to preserve some of the remaining ones, such as nearby Magome-juku.

Kiso Fukushima today

Kiso Fukushima is the largest town in the Kiso Valley, a popular area for hikers to experience the Nakasendo. It boasts a population of nearly 10,000 people and even today focuses on lodging for hikers; Japanese inns (called ryokan) are the most common lodging in the town. It also boasts the Kisofukushima train station, the only major stop in the valley. Express trains from Nagoya and Nagano/Matsumoto stop here thrice daily, connecting with a local train that runs every 2 to 3 hours.

Historic district

The historic district of Kiso Fukushima is called Fukushima-juku (juku refers to a place to stay, like an inn) and used to be a separate town. It sits on a hill overlooking (and sandwiched between) the railway and the Kiso River. It has several old buildings, streets, and alleyways. There are also a couple of Buddhist temples, such as Daitsuji, and Shinto shrines here, which would have played an active role in guiding travellers of the Nakasendo.

The restaurants in this area nowadays are more upscale than their counterparts would have been during the Edo period and have limited opening hours. Typically, these place open for a couple of hours for lunch and then reopen for dinner, so it is best to check the times before trying to go. Some also are by reservation only due to their popularity.

Kiso Fukushima’s historic district is the reason it has survived until today. Conversation efforts have kept it similar to how it would have looked during its heyday, drawing tourists from far and wide. These tourists often combine a visit to Fukushima-juku with visits to other posttowns, such as Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku to the south, or other sites in  the Kiso Valley, such as Agematsu.

Getting there

Getting to Kiso Fukushima can be a bit difficult without a car. From Nagano/Matsumoto or Nagoya, the Shinano line’s Limited Express trains are your only direct option. It takes 1.5 hours from Nagoya and Nagano and 43 minutes from Matsumoto. The cost from Nagoya is ¥4,500, ¥4,170 from Nagano, and ¥2,520 from Matsumoto.

Alternatively, you can take local trains, which will cut the price in half, but at double the travel time. You will also need to change trains at least once.

Note for these trains, you cannot use IC cards. All train stations within the Kiso Valley only accept cash for tickets. For the one-man trains (trains with only a driver), you take a ticket when you get on the train and then pay the driver when you get off the train. The exception to this rule is at larger stations (such as Kiso Fukushima) that are manned, where you pay the station attendant as you leave.

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