White Sands National Park: A Journey to a Gypsum Wonderland

When you think of a desert, what comes to mind? Very little rain? Dunes stretching as far as the eye can see? Have you ever seen a place like this? I recently had (and took) the opportunity to go to White Sands National Park. Located in southern New Mexico, USA, this is exactly what you would expect from a desert with one exception: it is not a typical sand desert. Instead, it is made of gypsum.

Geological history of White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park is home to the world’s largest gypsum dune field, a mesmerising expanse of over 275 square miles of shimmering white sand. But the story of White Sands begins long before humans set foot on the site.

280 million years ago: a sea of gypsum

During the Permian Period, about 280 million years ago, the area now known as White Sands National Park was covered by a shallow sea called the Permian Sea. This sea was teeming with marine life, and as the organisms died, their calcium-rich skeletons sank to the bottom of the sea. Over millions of years, these skeletons were compacted and transformed into limestone.

The Permian Sea also evaporated and left behind layers of gypsum, a soft, white mineral that is the main component of the sand in White Sands National Park. Gypsum is formed when calcium sulfate, a common mineral found in seawater, reacts with carbon dioxide from the atmosphere.

250 million years ago: the sea retreats and mountains rise

About 250 million years ago, the Permian Sea began to retreat, leaving behind a vast, flat plain. Over time, the Earth’s crust began to stretch and thin, causing the land to rise into mountains. The Sacramento Mountains to the east and the San Andres Mountains to the west were formed this way.

As the mountains rose, they eroded, and the eroded rocks were carried away by rivers and streams. The gypsum from the Permian Sea was deposited in the Tularosa Basin, a low-lying area between the two mountain ranges.

11,700 years ago: the ice age ends and the dunes form

The last Ice Age ended about 11,700 years ago, and the climate in the area that is now White Sands National Park became much drier and windier. The prevailing winds blew the gypsum sand from the Tularosa Basin, and over time, the sand accumulated into dunes.

The dunes continued to grow and change, eventually forming the vast white dune field we see today. The dunes are constantly shifting and changing, and the park is home to several dune types, including barchan dunes, transverse dunes, and star dunes.

Today: a protected landscape

White Sands National Park was designated a national monument in 1933 and was upgraded to a national park in 2019. The park is home to a variety of plants and animals, including the dune coquí, a small, tree-dwelling frog that is found only in the Chihuahuan Desert.

White Sands National Park is a popular destination for hiking, camping, and other outdoor activities. The park is also a popular spot for photography and filming, and it has been featured in many films and television shows.

Exploring the park

White Sands National Park today covers an area of 227.8 sq mi/589.9 km². There are three major areas: the nature trailhead, the interdune boardwalk, and the dunes.

Nature trailhead

The nature trailhead is a 1 mile/1.6 km walking trail that starts near the entrance. It is a circular trail that starts at the small car park (approximately 30 cars can park here); the beginning and the end are the most difficult due to the climb up and down the first dune – while the height changes due to the wind, the initial climb is steep of approximately 45 metres. It is not uncommon to see people scaling the dune on hands and feet/all fours instead of walking. However as the gypsum has been compacted due to many others walking this same trail, you usually do not have to worry about sliding down.

Along the nature trailhead, you will see a bit of everything the park has to offer: gypsum dunes, flat areas with many plants (the only area you can not walk in in the entire park), trees, and potentially some insects, spiders and other animals. It serves as a good introduction to the park, so if you are unsure of what to do, start here!

Interdune boardwalk

While the name resembles the wooden structure at the beach, this boardwalk is actually metallic. It is approximately a quarter of a mile/0.4 km between two large dunes. This area also has plants and evidence of animal life that is more likely to be seen at night (when the park is typically closed).

This is a very popular place to go in the park, so I was unable to visit during my visit.

Gypsum dunes

The majority of the park is covered in gypsum dunes. There is a mostly paved road that runs from the entrance that goes a couple of miles/kilometres into the park, ending in several car parks and a large loop.

After parking, the first thing you need to do is walk onto the dunes. There are a two ways to do this: follow trails marked with wooden stakes or go “off trail” onto the dunes themselves. Apart from part of the nature trail mentioned above, you can go everywhere the rest of the park. While it sounds like a large area, the park is small enough that if you just keep heading in one direction, you will come to an edge within a couple of hours, meaning it is hard to be truly lost with no hope of returning to civilisation.

I would highly recommend going off trail. The only difference between following a trail and going off trail is people. On the trail, you will see people. Off the trail, there are usually few enough visitors that you can stand at the top of the tallest dune you can find and see very few people away from the parking area.

When you really get into the dunes, you will have amazing views. Dunes can be up to 65 yards/60 metres tall from the relative position. Even standing at the top of the highest dune you can find, you will likely be unable to see anything but the gypsum dunes in all directions. That is because there is usually a lot of wind, even on clear days, which brings gypsum down from the mountains and moves the gypsum sand around in this area. As a result, the air looks very hazy.

The dunes also have some amazing striations that are caused by the wind.

The sand

Gypsum in sand is a very fine form is a very fine mineral. Whereas sand sticks to your clothing and skin, gypsum sand is very fine and falls off very easily. You will still get it in places such as your shoes but it will be much easier to remove from yourself and your clothes.

Normal sand also heats up in the sun but gypsum does not. As a result, the park is several degrees cooler than the surrounding areas. Ironically it is a place where locals go during the hot summer to cool down.

Gypsum can hold a lot of water, forming a weak crystal that is easy to break. This is the secret to why some plants can survive here. If you go during or just after it rains, you can walk on these crystals without leaving much of an imprint, although they are likely to break when you do so. They look like wet sand.

Getting to White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park is located in the Chihuahuan Desert, about 160 miles southwest of Albuquerque, New Mexico. The park is easily accessible by car, and there are several ways to get there.

From the North:

Take I-25 south to Las Cruces, New Mexico.
From Las Cruces, take US-70 east to White Sands National Park.

From the South:

Take I-10 west from El Paso, Texas.
From El Paso, take US-54 north to Alamogordo, New Mexico.
From Alamogordo, take US-70 east to White Sands National Park.
Alternatively: stay on I-10 west until Las Cruces, then take US-70 west to White Sands National Park.

From the West:

Take I-40 east from Phoenix, Arizona to Las Cruces, New Mexico.
From Las Cruces, take US-70 east to White Sands National Park.

From the East:

Take I-40 west from Amarillo, Texas.
From Amarillo, take US-84 west to Tucumcari, New Mexico.
From Tucumcari, take US-54 south to Alamogordo, New Mexico.
From Alamogordo, take US-82 north to White Sands National Park.

Once you arrive at White Sands National Park, there are several ways to get around:

By car: The park has a well-maintained road system that allows you to drive to most of the park’s attractions.
By bike: The park has a paved bike path that goes through the heart of the dune field.
By foot: The park has several hiking trails that offer stunning views of the dunes.

Here is some organisational information for getting to White Sands National Park:

The park is open from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, 365 days a year.
The entrance fee is $25 per vehicle. An annual pass for all National Parks and Monuments is $45. You can buy both at the entrance.
The park is located in a remote area, so be sure to fill up your fuel tank before you go. The nearby town of Alamagordo is the nearest place with fuel.
The park is home to a variety of wildlife, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled for animals like coyotes, snakes, and lizards.

Tips for White Sands National Park

White Sands National Park is a unique and beautiful place to visit, but it’s important to be prepared for the desert environment. Here are a few tips to help you make the most of your visit:

1. Take water.

The desert can be very hot and dry, so it’s important to stay hydrated. Be sure to bring plenty of water with you, and drink it regularly, even if you don’t feel thirsty. The National Park Service recommends 1 gallon/4 litres per person per day.

2. Wear protective clothing.

The sun can be very strong in the desert, so it’s important to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. Wear a wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher. You should also wear long-sleeved, loose-fitting clothing to protect your skin from the sun, wind, and sand.

3. Be prepared for strong winds.

The wind can blow very strongly in the desert, so it’s important to be prepared for it. If you’re hiking, be sure to hold onto your hat and sunglasses. You may also want to wear a scarf or bandana to protect your face.

4. Be respectful of the wildlife.

White Sands National Park is home to a variety of wildlife, including snakes, lizards, and coyotes. Be sure to keep your distance from wildlife and do not feed them.

5. Leave no trace.

It’s important to leave no trace of your visit to White Sands National Park. This means packing out all of your trash and leaving the area as you found it.

6. Be prepared for crowds.

White Sands National Park is a popular tourist destination, so it can get crowded towards the entrance. If you’re visiting during the peak season, be prepared for crowds. You may also want to consider visiting during the off season, when the park is less crowded.