
When you think of Japan, many people know of Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto, for the red torii gates forming a near solid path up the mountain’s slopes. It is the head Inari shrine dedicated to the Japanese kami (deity) of foxes, fertility, rice, tea, sake, agriculture and industry, general prosperity and worldly success (including business ventures). However, the experience can often be less than rewarding as many tourists and visitors get in your way. Instead, try Takayama Inari Shrine in Aomori Prefecture.




History of Takayama Inari Shrine
The exact date the shrine was founded is not known. On old maps from the Edo period, Takayama is marked as Sanno-yama, and the legend of the founding of Sanno Shrine, which is a shrine within the grounds of this shrine, states that it was a large sacred site with 13 Buddhist temples lined up around Sannobo Hiyoshi Shrine. It flourished as a place of prayer for the Ando clan but was burned down by Nanbu forces in either 1432 or 1443. It is said that at that time, Sanno Okami emitted a golden light and descended like a shooting star on the sacred ground of Takayama.



According to the foundation legend, during the Edo period in the 14th year of Genroku (1701), the Ako domain was abolished due to a sword attack in Edo Castle by Asano Takumi no Kami Naganori, the lord of Ako domain. At this time, a retainer of the domain, Terasaka Sangoro, offered Inari Okami’s spirit, which had been enshrined in Ako Castle, as a gift. After exile, he ended up in Hirosaki in Tsugaru. He later moved to Ajigasawa, where he established a brewery business named “Akoya” and prospered. When his descendants moved to Oshima, they received a revelation that they should enshrine Inari in this sacred place in Takayama, and so they did.






Considering all of this, it seems that the Sanno Shrine was the original, and the Inari Shrine was founded during the Edo period. As faith in Inari flourished during the Edo period, Takayama Inari Shrine flourished, and the original Sanno Shrine receded into obscurity.





Senbon-Torii
Like at Fushimi Inari Taisha, Takayama Inari Shrine has a Senbon-Torii or a long path of vermillion torii gates. A torii represents a gateway to heaven; as you enter one, you are supposed to leave your worldly self and concerns behind you as you enter the sacred and spirit worlds. As a gateway, it is also a place where deities and spirits can enter the mundane world, so you are thought to be more likely to see/feel them near Torii than anywhere else.



There are over 200 torii at Takayama Inari Shrine, creating an approximately 150-metre (500-ft) path for visitors to walk along. Unlike the Fushimi Inari Shrine, where the path goes up the mountain and includes many stairs, at Takayama Inari Shrine, there are only a couple of stairs at the end and goes through a traditional Japanese garden setting.


While I was there, there was a grand total of four other people: a couple and two middle-aged women. It was the most peaceful and quiet shrine I have ever been to. Going at 10 a.m. on a Monday definitely helped, but looking at other photos and reviews of the shrine, it sounds like this is normal on almost any day at any time.
Getting there
Takayama Inari Shrine is about 40 km northeast of Aomori city. The easiest way to reach the shrine is by car. If you do not have that opportunity, you can go there by public transport, although it will not be easy.
From Aomori/Shin-Aomori Stations, you first need to go to JR Goshogawara Station, which involves taking the Ou Line to Kawabe and switching to the Gono Line. This will take just over 1 hour, depending on the transfer. Alternatively, you can take the number 58 bus to Goshogawara. Once you reach the city, take the Konan Bus Kodomari Line (via Juso) to the Takayama Shrine Entrance stop. From here, it is a 3-km walk to the central part of the shrine.



Here are the Google Map directions to Goshogawara.
Here is the bus company website, where you can check the Kodomari Line bus.
It is entirely free to enter Takayama Inari Taisha, although as a shrine, donations in the donation boxes are naturally appreciated. Omamori (protective charms) and souvenirs are also available, and the shrine runs a restaurant. Although it is cash only, the food is basic but delicious and includes classic temple foods, drinks and snacks, such as soba, teas/coffee, Japanese sweets and ice cream. Availability depends on the season.
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One response to “Takayama Inari Shrine: Vermillion Torii Gates without the Crowds”
The torii gates doubts wonderful and from the pics – looked in pristine condition.
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