In southern Kagoshima Prefecture lies the Satsuma Peninsula, an extremely mountainous region with beautiful beaches, stunning volcanoes and a long history intertwined with Japan’s. Near the middle of this peninsula lies a solitary temple inspired by Chinese designs. Named Seiryu-ji, it is stunning for not only the artwork on display but also its golden pavillion.

History of Shingon Buddhism

Seiryu-Ji, or Seiryu Temple, which is also known formally as 東寺真言宗不動山青隆寺 (Toji Shingon-shu Fudosan Seiryuji), was founded in 1990. It incorporated temple buildings from a previous temple, and many more were added. Seiryu-ji is run by the Shingon-shu sect of Buddhism, which dates to 812 and was created by Indian vajrācāryas (esoteric masters). It is one of the few surviving direct lineages from East Asian Buddhism and is often called Japanese Esoteric Buddhism or Eastern Esotericism.

Shingon Buddhism stresses that “Buddhahood is obtained in this very body” through one’s practices. This sect also believes that all beings were initially enlightened, so they practise returning to that state. When brought over and adapted from China, it had immediate, resounding success with the upper classes. Kukai, the famous monk who brought this movement to Japan, was supported by the Emperor of the time, giving Shingon Buddhism a huge boost.  Shingon Buddhism has also influenced Japanese Buddhism as a whole, such as Soto Zen and some of the rituals still performed today. Different interpretations of his students lead to different subsects, which would eventually lead to conflict – mostly political wrangling but sometimes also violent.

During this time, the Pure Land movement—creating the land of the Buddha in Japan—took off, and Shingon Buddhism incorporated many aspects into its doctrine. This is important for Seiryu-ji later.

Unfortunately, during the Japanese Warring States, the power of temples, including Shingon ones, declined everywhere. Many were destroyed in the fighting (some of which they started – to expand temple lands). In the Edo period, new religious controls were implemented for Buddhism and Shingon was incorporated into the new administrative temple system, allowing it to exist but holding the reigns tight.

The Meiji Restoration in 1868 greatly affected Shingon Buddhism, which was deeply entwined with many Shinto shrines. Many Shingon temples were closed, others became Shinto shrines, and the few surviving subsects were forced to merge into one unified “Dai-Shingon” sect.

Seiryu-ji: Buildings and art

Seiryu-ji is built on the side of a mountain and sits primarily on two levels. The lower level has the Information Desk and other buildings that support the day-to-day religious needs of the populace. The upper level has the most important buildings, such as the Hondo, Kannondo and Taishido, and the golden pavilion, the Konjikido.

This temple draws inspiration from China in its design, architecture, and artwork, including stronger and more vibrant colours. Artwork is all over the buildings, floors, and paving stones.

Seiryu-ji: Garden

Due to the sect’s history with Pure Land landscapes, the garden also has many of these features designed to help worshippers reach enlightenment and eventually Buddhahood. These include many familiar aspects of temple gardens, such as using Zen concepts and tranquillity. Additionally, there are some water features, boulders (including one that is 35 tonnes) and quiet garden spaces where visitors can reflect.

Getting there and entry information

Seiryu-ji can only be accessed by car. It is about 1.5 hours from Kagoshima Airport, 45 minutes from JR Kagoshima Station (in Kagoshima City) and 15 minutes from JR Satsumaimaizumi Station. Its location is here (Google Maps).

Entrance to the temple costs ¥500 for adults and allows you access to all areas that are open. Please note that buildings are closed when they are being used for worship, and the golden pavillion is almost always closed to the public, so you will only be able to see it from outside.

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