In Fukushima Prefecture’s Aizu region lies Aizu-Wakamatsu, the largest town. In addition to hosting famous sites, such as the Tsuruga Castle: Eastern Japan’s Largest Castle, Aizu-Wakamatsu has something unique: Sazaedo.

What is Sazaedo?

Sazaedo, or the “Sea Snail Temple,” is a three-storey pagoda built in 1796 to house 33 statues of the goddess Kannon, an important figure in Japanese Buddhism (e.g., Sendai Dai-Kannon: The Guardian of Sendai, Ryozen Kannon: The giant sitting Buddha statue overlooking Kyoto, and Kamaishi Dai-Kannon Temple: Giant Buddha overlooking Honshu’s Sanriku Coast).

Sazaedo stands over 17 meters (55 ft) tall, but the term “3 storeys” is somewhat of a misnomer. There would be enough room for 3 of them if it had floors. However, this pagoda has a central pillar around which a wide double helix staircase winds. Alcoves are built into the walls and central pillar, which you stop at to worship as you ascend or descend the stairs.

The design was said to be inspired by a monk named Ikudo, who came up with it as a convenient way for worshippers to complete a well-known pilgrimage of 33 images of the bodhisattva of compassion but on a smaller scale. The normal route goes through seven prefectures in Kansai and can take 2 to 4 weeks to complete. At that time, it would have been extremely difficult to reach the pilgrimage route from Aizu-Wakamatsu, so this smaller version was created.

Sazaedo is not the temple’s official name, ‘Entsu Sanso’. This means ‘circle three times’ and refers to the pilgrims’ route: 1.5 circles to ascend and 1.5 circles to descend the temple, completing three revolutions in dedication to Kannon.

What makes Sazaedo unique?

In addition to a double-helix staircase, which is only found in a couple of places in the world (another example is the Château de Chambord in France reported designed by Leonardo da Vinci), the senjafuda, or small slips of paper/stickers left at a shrine as an offering, are different. At most shrines, senjafuda have a prayer written on them. Nowadays they are usually wooden plaques hung around the shrine’s grounds on dedicated boards.

However, the senjafuda at Sazaedo are more like the older concept of senjafuda —stickers with a worshipper’s name and place of residence. They used to be a sign saying, “I was here.” Sazaedo is still adorned with many of these stickers around its interior, along the walls of the staircase and the ceilings/undersides of the stairs above.

These senjafuda offer a look back on worshippers since the temple was rebuilt in 1890.

Getting there and information

The first step is getting to Aizu-Wakamatsu. If you are going by train, you can take a Shinkansen to Koriyama Station and then transfer to the local Ban-Etsusai Line. This journey would take almost three hours from Tokyo Station.

As a (sometimes faster) alternative, long-distance buses also connect Koriyama and Aizu-Wakamatsu. This journey, including the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station, would potentially take 2.5 hours.

If you are coming from the west, such as from Niigata, coach buses will be more convenient. Niigata to Aizu-Wakamatsu station is direct and takes just under 2 hours. Conversely, the same route takes 4.25 hours by train and has at least one train change.

To get to Sazaedo from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station, you can take one of the local buses in the direction of Akabe. It costs a flat rate of ¥210 per journey. Alternatively, you can buy a One-Day pass (unlimited rides), which costs ¥600 for an adult, so as long as you ride more than twice, you will save money. You can also use an electronic version via QR code, which is available here (Google Play, Apple Store).

Sazaedo costs ¥400 to enter for adults, which allows you to enter and exit once. The ticket booth is located opposite the entrance; there are no ticket controls at the entrance.

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