The capital of Aichi Prefecture, Nagoya, is home to what was once one of the most important castles in Japan. Nagoya Castle, or Meijo as it is sometimes known, is one of the “100 most famous castles in Japan”. In fact Meijo means “famous castle” in Japanese. It is also sometimes called Kinkojo (“Golden Shachi (shachi = sea monster) Castle”) or Kinjo (“Golden Castle”). It is also considered one of the three most famous castles in Japan (along with Osaka and Kumamoto Castles).
History of Nagoya Castle
Construction and the Edo Period
Nagoya Castle was built in 1612 on the remains of an older castle. At the time, Nagoya was called Nagoya-juku. Juku, which refers to a place to rest, such as an “inn” in English, tells us a lot about Nagoya’s importance. During the Edo period, five major, centrally administrated “highways” were called the Edo Five Routes. Nagoya sat on two of them: Tokaido (“the ocean road”) and the Nakasendo (“the central mountain route”). Constructed between 1610 and 1612, it was the residence of the Owari branch of the Tokugawa clan – the clan that established the Shogunate and became Shogun over Japan.
Castle construction techniques had improved by leaps and bounds over the past 100 years in Japan, and Nagoya Castle made extensive use of these. Nagoya Castle became not only a symbol of the latest and greatest in castles but also a model for other castles built later.
The castle included the main keep (called a tenshu), a couple of palaces that served as living quarters, fortifications, watchtowers, and a moat. Some materials and buildings came from a smaller castle and were repurposed to become part of the new castle. For example, the tenshu of Kiyosu Castle became a turret in the fortifications.
From 1614 to 1617, an army of artists and craftspeople elaborately decorated the Honmaru and Ninomaru palaces, usually just in time for the Shogun’s inspections.
Over the next hundred years or so, renovations were carried out to keep the castle in tip-top shape. However, the keep started tilting due to a gradual caving of materials in its stone wall on one side. This was fixed in 1730. However, the Owari branch began to run up debts. The shachi had to be melted down twice and recast with less gold to pay these debts. However, to hide this from observers, a fine wire mesh was designed to cover the shachi.
End of the Shogunate and Meiji Era
The Meiji Restoration was not kind to the castle. Following the sudden decline in the Owari branch, parts of the castle were demolished, and the shachi were sent to the Imperial Household Department, the administrative arm of the imperial family.
The castle only survived due to the influence of the German minister to Japan, Max von Brandt, who spoke out against its demolition. Instead, it was converted into a barracks and garrison. However, in October 1891, a severe earthquake damaged many of the structures. While repairs were carried out, not everything was rebuilt.
In 1930, the castle was given to Nagoya, and 24 structures became national treasures. The castle then opened to the public in February 1931.
World War 2 and Today
The castle was used as a prisoner-of-war camp. It was also the administrative headquarters for the district army. As a result, there was extensive bombing by the US Air Army Force, which destroyed much of the castle and many national treasures, which included buildings and art, were lost.
The castle was repaired over the years, especially in the 1950s, and many buildings were rebuilt. The most recent was the Honmaru Palace, which was completed in 2018. The city is also planning to reconstruct the main towers in the fortifications. The work is still ongoing.
Additionally, Nagoya City wants to restore the Honmaru and Ninomaru palaces to their original states using photos and architectural drawings that have been discovered. This would require moving existing buildings, which has been achieved at other castles.
Today, Nagoya Castle sits in the middle of Meijo Park, including the castle and surrounding grounds.
Obon
The Obon festival occurs in the middle of August (typically from 13 to 16), corresponding to the 7th month of the lunar calendar. It is a Buddhist event for remembering one’s ancestors. They are believed to have returned to this world to visit their relatives temporarily.
As part of the celebrations, dances and other festive activities take place. These bon odori are standardised, simple dances that anyone can easily learn and join in.
Typically, many companies close during this period, which allows workers to travel home and celebrate with their families in their hometowns.
I had the fortune of visiting Nagoya during this period, so I was able to see some of the festivities here at the castle as well:
Getting to Nagoya Castle
First, you need to get to Nagoya, which is easy. You can take a Shinkansen to Nagoya Station from Tokyo, Kyoto or any major city on Honshu’s southern coast. Alternatively, you can fly as Nagoya is serviced by an airport – Nagoya Airport.
There are a couple of ways to get to the castle. You can take the 30, 33, or 34 bus from Nagoya Station, all of which go to City Hall, which is right next to the castle. Alternatively, you can take some of the underground lines, but you will need to change.
For example, you can go from the station on the Higashiyama Line and change to the Seto Line at Sakae Station, finally alight at Higashiote Station and walk to the castle.
Or you can take the Sakuradori Line to Marunouchi Station, then change the Tsurumai Line and alight at Sengen-cho Station, again walking to the castle afterwards.
A final option is to take the Sakuradori Line to Hisayaodori Station, then switch to the Meijo Line (Local Clockwise) and get off at Nagoyajo station.
The bus will take 20 minutes and cost ¥210, whereas the subway/train lines will take 12 and cost ¥240.
Thanks for reading! Want to do some more exploring? Have a look at the travel map:
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