Northwest of the Japanese city of Fukuoka lies one of Japan’s most iconic Shinto shrines – so iconic you may have seen famous pictures of it! If you have seen a picture of the sunset down a large boulevard with a bay in the background and a torii gate in the midground, that is probably from Miyajidake Shrine.

Miyajidake Shrine’s History

Empress Jingu/Okinagatarashihime no Mikoto

According to their website, Miyajidake Shrine was founded over 1,600 years ago and is dedicated to the legendary Empress Jingu, a controversial figure in the modern era. The legend goes that her husband was murdered around 200 CE (while trying to conquer the Kumaso people), and she became the regent.

After taking revenge on her husband’s murderers, she turned her attention to Korea. Praying to the gods at the place that would become Miyajidake Shrine, she received a divine revelation about succeeding in this task. Born to a Korean princess, she went to Korea with an army, returning victorious after three years with the three subjugated Korean kingdoms.

During this time, it is also said that she had sex with the god Azumi-no-isora (a Shinto god of the seashore and the ancestors of the Azumi people – a warrior clan from Kyushu from the 3^rd to 7^th centuries) and was given the tide jewels, with which she was able to control the tide.

When she returned to Japan, she defeated her son’s political enemies and installed him as the crown prince (of whom she was the regent). She then lived to the ripe age of 100, dying in 269 CE.

Unfortunately, her invasion of Korea was used during the Meiji Era as an excuse for the Imperial Japanese Government to invade and subjugate Korea. It has since been called into question as there is no evidence of her conquest.

Events

Tsuitachi (First Day) Festival

On the first of every month, there is a ceremony at midnight to pray for good fortune for that month. Originally, it happened on the new moon, but now that Japan uses the solar calendar, it is always held on the first. The shrine is open all day and night, offering prayers and receiving gifts for the coming month.

Autumn Festival

The Autumn Festival, held annually on 21, 22, and 23 September, dates back approximately 700 years and is the shrine’s biggest festival. Throughout the festival, stalls and vendors are set up near the temple. The temple also has Maboroshi and Tsukushi dance performances (see below), a taiko drumming event, judo and kendo competitions, and exhibitions of award-winning calligraphy.

On the 22^nd, the Goshinko Festival features live events and children’s dance performances. A fireworks display will also be held from 8 p.m. These fireworks have the wishes of worshippers attached to them, which are then delivered to the great god in the sky.

During the Autumn Festival, the object in which the god is enshrined is brought out and paraded through the streets, inspecting the area where her parishioners live. This usually happens on the 23^rd and features a grand procession reminiscent of a royal picture scroll. It features a man dressed as a slave carrying a spear, a magnificent portable shrine, the Ministers of the Left and Right, the King of the Festival in a twelve-layered kimono riding on an oxcart, and a priest in full cape.

Setsubun Festival

Miyajidake Shrine also takes part in the Setsubun Festival at the beginning of the festival. This festival, which I have covered for other shrines such as Kushida Shrine in Fukuoka, is all about warding off evil spirits. This takes place on the 2nd and 3rd as well as Sundays during the festival.

Unique Features

Several things set Miyajidake Shrine apart from other Shinto shrines:

Japan’s Big Three

Miyajidake Shrine has three sacred objects of national importance. Because they are the largest in their respective categories, they are known as “Japan’s Big Three”.

The first is the shimenawa, of which there are many in Japan, but Miyajidake Shrine has a 5-tonne version of this rope talisman hanging from the shrine above the main altar. It is 13.5 metres (44.3 ft) long and 2.5 metres (8.2 ft) in diameter. Shimenawa are barriers that separate the earthly areas of the shrine from the sacred area, warding off misfortune and disaster. They also signify that a deity is in residence, so you sometimes find them around boulders, giant trees and waterfalls. Miyajidake Shrine’s version is the largest and heaviest in Japan and is periodically annually by thousands of volunteers.

The second is a half-tonne copper bell, which is also the largest in Japan.

The final giant sacred object is a humungous drum measuring 2.2 metres (7.2 ft) across. It usually sits inside a glass case but is brought out for the New Year when it is struck for good luck and fortune.

Unfortunately, due to setting up for an event, the bell nor the drum were visible during my visit.

Miyajidake Kofun

While it is not counted as part of the Big Three, Miyajidake has another “Japan’s biggest”—Miyajidake Kofun, the largest megalithic tomb in Japan. Built sometime between the end of the 6th and beginning of the 7th centuries, it is 23 metres (75.5 ft) long, 5 metres (16.4 ft) wide, and 5 metres high. This also makes it the second longest. Several grave goods have been discovered there, including equipment for horses, swords, and glass beads. Almost a dozen of these items have been designated as National Treasures and are currently on loan to the Kyushu National Museum in Dazaifu.

While it is known for definite who was buried here, one theory is that it is Munakata no Kimi Tokuzen, who was the father of Amago no Musume, the mother of Prince Takeichi, who was the first son of Emperor Tenmu – a powerful emperor who introduced many reforms and was the first to be called the Tenno, meaning Emperor of Japan.

Miyajidake Shrine’s Sunset Boulevard

Often compared to “Manhattangate” – a phenomenon in New York City’s Manhattan where the sunset is aligned perfectly with the city’s skyscrapers on a grid system – the sando (road to the temple) goes to Fukuoka Bay 1.3 km (0.8 miles) away. Twice a year, in late February and October (usually around the 20^th of each month), the sun lines up perfectly with the torii gates, producing amazing views if the weather is clear.

Known as the “Road of Light,” on these days, the Sunset Festival also takes place. Visitors can either purchase tickets for upper seats or enter a lottery for middle and lower seats to view the sunset.

This route was made famous in 2016 through a Japan Airlines commercial, and Japanese and international tourists have flocked here ever since!

Maboroshi Dance and Tsukushi Dance

Two intangible cultural heritage items also originate from Miyajidake Shrine. The monks perform these two dance styles during some festivals.

Tsukushi Dance was first recorded in 731 and is said to be related to a connection between the Azumi Clan and the Imperial family. Originally, there were over 200 songs and accompanying dances. However, only four have survived into the modern era – all of which are dedicated to the gods.

Getting to Miyajidake Shrine

Miyajidake Shrine is located in the town of Fukutsu, which is connected to Hakata Station by a train line. Take the Kagoshima Line towards Kitakyushu/Mojiko and get off at the Fukutsu stop.

From there, you will need to either take a bus (the Fukutsu Minibus 2 Tsuyazaki Line) or you can walk. Walking will take about half an hour, while the bus takes 20 minutes and costs ¥200 for adults.

Miyajidake Shrine is free to visit, although donations are always appreciated. It is open all hours, although the offices are open from around 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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