In Kagoshima Prefecture in southern Kyushu lies Kumaso Cave. Near the city of Kirishima, the cave is steeped in a combination of myth, history and legends. Today, you can visit the cave to see modern, psychedelic-like paintings on the cave walls.

Myth, History and Legends of Kumaso Cave

In the first and second centuries CE, the political landscape of what we now know as Japan was very different. As it was known then, Yamato had its seat of government in Nara (near Kyoto and Osaka). It controlled (roughly) everything on Honshu west of modern Tokyo, Shikoku, and the northern parts of Kyushu. The rest of the Japanese archipelago was divided into various tribes – one of which in this region was called Kumaso. The Yamato government did its best to conquer, integrate, and assimilate local tribes, and the Kumaso was no exception.

However, the Kumaso had no such interest in being part of Yamato. A fierce tribe, they were described in surviving texts as being “bear-like” in their ferocity, which in Japanese is “kuma-so”. Preferring self-governance, they had previously been brought under the heel of the Yamato government. They were forced to send 50% of the rice they grew to Nara – which eventually became untenable. This part of Kyushu is very volcanous, and it isn’t easy to grow rice reliably when volcanoes erupt. They could not meet the tribute, so the emperor sent a prince to take care of the Kumaso – in any way necessary.

The legend goes that a prince named Osou was sent. At the time, 55 leaders of various tribes were gathered for a celebration in what is now called Kumaso Cave. Osou arrived late and decided to wear women’s clothing and pour drinks for the men, being courtly rather than warriorlike and knowing he would be unable to defeat the ferocious Kamikawa in combat. The leader of the Kumaso, Kawakami, was smitten with him and took him to a private cave to have a more intimate drinking experience. While there, Osou stabbed him.

According to the rest of the legend, he revealed himself and his reason for stabbing Kawakami. With his dying breath, Kawakami dissolved the tribe, yielding ultimately to the emperor and giving Osou the same Yamato Takeru (“brave leader of the Japanese people”).

Kumaso Cave Topography

These events may or may not have happened, and the legend seems to paint the Japanese in a very flattering light. Still, whatever the truth may be, the rest of Kyushu came under the direct control of successive emperors and governments. All that we have left of the Kumaso are accounts from the side of the Japanese. They may have been a real tribe (if so, most likely of Australasian origin) that has become a legend, or they could be mythical. However, what remains is the cave.

Kumaso Cave is a surprisingly large cave with a small entrance near the volcanoes north of Kirishima. With this typography, it could be that it was a strategic place for a local tribe to resist the Yamato. The cave is roughly 22 metres (72.1 ft) deep, 10 metres (32.8 ft) wide, and 6 metres (19.7 ft) high, so it could have held a decent number of people while fighting the bottleneck caused by the cave mouth.

The cave also sits approximately 200 metres (656.1 ft) above the valley floor and river, and it requires a steep climb to reach. This would have been an additional hurdle for potential invading forces.

Art at Kumaso Cave

In recent times, Japan has been looking back at some of its prehistory and highlighting aspects, including the story of Yamato Takeru and how Japan was formed. To attract people to sites like these, which are often out of the way, exhibits such as the modern art one installed here have been added as an extra incentive to visit.

When you visit the cave today, after parking and hiking up the steep stairs, you duck through the entrance and are greeted by a dimly lit cave where the cave walls have been painted with strong, neon colours in various patterns. Among the patterns are also different items and animals that may have featured in cave paintings from this time, such as snakes, birds, and other patterns.    

Getting to Kumaso Cave

Kumaso Cave lies above route National Route 223. You most likely need a car to get there – there are bus stops in the area, but I could not find any information on reliable public transport to get there.

The cave is uncontrolled and free to visit. Make sure you wear sensible hiking clothing, including sturdy walking shoes. As you look around, you will be standing on unprepared rock ground. For example, I would highly recommend against wearing flip-flops or dress shoes.

Thanks for reading! Want to do some more exploring? Have a look at the travel map:

Interested in seeing our social media? Follow us on Instagram for travel photos and Youtube for travel videos!