In Kanazawa City in Ishikawa Prefecture, close to the castle, is Kenroku-en, a garden renowned for its beauty at any time of year—even winter! Spread over 11.7 hectares (nearly 25 acres), it has ponds, several tea houses, and one of the oldest fountains in Japan.

History of Kenroku-en

Local legend – Sacred Well of Kenroku-en

A local legend suggests that the history of Kenroku-en stretches back to over 1,200 years ago. At that time, a peasant named Togoro stopped to wash his potatoes in a well. As he cleaned the dirt off them, gold flakes bubbled up from the bottom of the well. This is where the city’s name, Kanazawa – or “Marsh of Gold” – comes from.

If this legend is true, the Sacred Well of Kenroku-en would be the oldest object in the garden.

Kenroku-en Garden

Edo Period

Kenroku-en started as a place where the Maeda clan, the feudal lords who ruled the Kaga Domain (now part of Ishikawa), would escape. The exact date of foundation is unknown, but the most likely date is 1676 when the feudal lord built a villa on the site and turned the surrounding areas into gardens. A water channel was completed in 1632 and incorporated into Kenroku-en. The feudal lord, or daimyo, called the garden Renchitei, meaning “lotus pond”.

Kenroku-en was used for many purposes, but one of the main ones was maple viewing parties in the autumn when the Momiji turned beautiful fire red, orange, and yellow. Other common activities were moon-viewing parties and admiring horses.

Unfortunately, the Great Horeki Fire of 1759 destroyed the garden completely. It was rebuilt in 1774 and expanded to include a waterfall and new tea houses. Two schools were also constructed on the property above the Lotus Pond Garden. In 1819, Takezawa Palace, a retirement home for the 11th daimyo, was completed, featuring over 200 rooms and 13,000 m² (~ 139,930 ft²). It was also at this time that the garden became known as Kenroku-en.

Further additions and expansions at the end of the Edo Period improved the garden, including widening Kasumigaike Pond and building Mount Eizarayama in 1837, and demolishing a wall and combining the various gardens (which had been separate) with the Lotus Pond Garden.

After the Meiji Restoration

Kenroku-en opened to the public on a limited basis in 1871 and fully opened in 1874. It was called “Kenroku-en Park,” although “Park” was dropped again in 1924.

From 1874 to 1976, Kenroku-en was open 24/7. Unfortunately, set hours and entry fees were introduced due to the constant stream of people stealing stones and destroying lanterns.

What makes Kenroku-en unique?

The name itself is a clue to what makes Kenroku-en special: ken means combined, roku means “six,” and en means “garden.” The six things combined are attributes that were said to describe a perfect garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, waterways, and panoramas.

According to these characteristics, what makes it even more impressive is that they are diametrically opposed to each other, which is why it is said to be challenging to create the perfect garden. Different parts of the garden lend themselves to various attributes, with the ponds and flatter areas giving a sense of openness and spaciousness. In contrast, the hilly and forested areas provide seclusion.

Kenroku-en has approximately 8,750 trees and 183 species of plants growing on its grounds. Additionally, several teahouses, bridges, paths and pagodas set artifice and nature in harmony along the waterways and ponds for which the garden is known.

Winter

While many gardens in Japan (and the world) are closed or have nothing to see in the winter, Kenroku-en is an exception. In Kanazawa, snow begins in December and falls often until February, blanketing the garden in soft white powder that creates a winter wonderland-like atmosphere. The garden’s artificial elements still offer something to view amongst the white landscape.

My visit

I stayed for nearly a week in Kanazawa and was able to go to the garden twice. However, both times, the garden was overly crowded. The first time was a weekend day, so I cut my visit short and decided to return during the week. While it was less crowded the second time (a Tuesday), it was still very crowded compared to other extensive gardens I have been to in Japan.

The garden is sloped, so make sure you have decent footwear. You do not need hiking boots or equipment, but sensible walking shoes for exploring cities are essential. There is a lot of walking in the garden, so I recommend comfortable shoes with support.

My visit was during early September, so while a few species of flowering plants were in bloom, the predominant colour in the garden was the green of the trees and leaves. The garden was lovely to wander around in, but I honestly have to admit that due to the crowds on both days, the garden did not meet my expectations. Although it is “One of Japan’s Three Great Gardens”, and its size was undoubtedly impressive, it did not seem much different from other gardens that I have visited in Japan at this time of year. I think its uniqueness needs to be seen in the late autumn, winter, and early spring when other gardens are closed to the public.

Getting to Kenroku-en and Entry

Kanazawa City is located along the coast of Ishikawa Prefecture, and the mountains prevent it from growing inwards. Kenroku-en is located near the middle of the spread but closer to the mountains, near the castle.

From JR Kanazawa Station, you have several bus options. You can take a Hokutestu Bus (including the Kanazawa Castle Town Loop Bus) or West Japan JR Bus and get off at any of the following stops:

• “Kenrokuenshita/Kanazawa Castle” bus stop (nearest stop is Katsurazakaguchi)
• “Hirosaka 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art” bus stop (nearest stop is Mayumisaka exit)
• “Dewamachi” bus stop (nearest stop is Kodatsunoguchi)

The garden is open from 07:00 to 18:00 from March to 15 October and from 08:00 to 17:00 during the winter (mid-October to the end of February). It is open every day, including during the new year. Adult tickets are ¥320, children cost ¥100, and seniors (aged 65+) are free if you show your ID. The ticket allows you to enter and exit as often as you would like for the day.

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