Located in the heart of Hakodate is a distinctly European star fortress called Goryokaku, meaning “five-port fort”. But why would there be one here? Why not a Japanese castle?

History

Despite most star forts being built between the 14th and 18th centuries due to cannonballs and gunpowder, the fort in Hakodate was built between 1859 and 1866. The principal designer was a Japanese man named Takeda Ayasaburo, who had studied Dutch techniques. In the last years of the Tokugawa Shogunate, he was ordered to build a fort to protect Hakodate, Hokkaido and the Tsugar Strait (the water between Hokkaido and Honshu).

In comparison to Japanese castles and fortresses, it was able to hold more guns and had fewer blind spots, making the newcomer a much more difficult target for potential Japanese invaders to engage.

First and last engagement

It only fought in one battle during its operation in June 1869. The Boshin War (or Japanese Civil War) was the death struggle of the Shogunate to retain power as political power was being transferred back to the Imperial Court. The former Shogunate army and navy were defeated near Tokyo and sought to capture Hokkaido, then known as Ezo. Once they took Hakodate in December 1868, they broke away from the new government in Tokyo and formed the Ezo Republic.

In May, the new Meiji government attacked the navy in Hakodate with their new ironclad warship Kotetsu at the forefront, having made steady gains in other parts of southern Hokkaido in April. The leaders fled, the military surrendered, the Republic was integrated into the new Empire of Japan, and Goryokaku did not see much action.

What makes Goryokaku unique?

Goryokaku is hailed as a fusion of European and Japanese architecture. While the fortification part was primarily European in design, the central buildings were built in traditional Japanese styles. You can still visit the Magistrate’s office if you go there today. This is where the seat of the government in Hokkaido was based, and it resembles a Japanese villa with wooden floors, tatami, screens and more.

Goryokaku Today

Nowadays, Goryokaku is a Special Historical Site open to the public as a park. It serves as a museum of the area, the last battle of the Boshin War, and a nice getaway from the hustle and bustle of the city.

The large majority of trees in Goryokaku are cherry trees, so early May is an excellent time to visit as the park is awash in light pink cherry blossoms.

Additionally, Goryokaku Tower has been built nearby, which offers excellent views of Goryokaku from above (where you can better appreciate its shape).

Going to the observation decks (the top 2 floors) costs ¥1,000 for adults. You can find more about Goryokaku Tower and current information here.

At the top, you can also get cherry blossom ice cream. It was delicious!

Because of its height, you also have great views over the rest of the city as well:

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