Hakata-ori: Fabric of Samurai, Sumo and Kimono

Known across Japan for its quality, Hakata-ori has been produced for nearly 800 years in Fukuoka Prefecture. Known equally for its thickness and stiffness as well as its high quality, it has been designated a “traditional craft” by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.

Hakata-ori – From Then to Now

In the beginning

Silk textiles have been produced in Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City for thousands of years, as evidenced by ruins from the Yayoi Period (10/9^th Century BCE to 3^rd Century CE).

The tradition of Hakata-ori dates almost 800 years to the Kamakura Period of Japan. In 1235 CE, a Japanese merchant named Mitsuda Yazaemon travelled to China during the Song dynasty to learn about trades and traditions. Among many traditions brought back, such as (what would become) manju (traditional Japanese cakes), ceramic production techniques, gold leaf creation techniques, and wheat noodle production techniques, was a specific textile production technique that would become Hakata-ori.

In the 16^th century, one of Mitsuda’s descendants, Mitsuda Hikosaburo, went back to China and learned further textile production techniques. Combining the original with the new, Hikosaburo created a taffeta-like material with a raised stripe. At this time, obi – a belt for kimono – were thin, narrow bands, and this technique was only used for men’s obi.

Over time, the technique was further refined, and weaving was adopted, creating the Hakata-ori technique or “Hakata weaving”.

Edo Period

At the beginning of the Edo Period in 1603, Nagamasa Kuroda, the feudal lord of the Fukuoka Clan, presented the Tokugawa shogunate Hakata-ori as tribute. These pieces had a specific pattern on them that was inspired by Buddhism called kenjohin. This is where the word “Kenjo-gara” combines “a gift given to a superior/tribute” and “pattern”, thereby creating a new name for this specific type and limiting it to the nobility. At this time, obi started to become wider and thicker, eventually becoming what we know as obi today.

Hakata-ori became even more popular in 1815 when a famous kabuki actor wore a obi, or belt that holds a kimono together, on stage in the kenjo-gawa style. Due to its stiff and sturdy weave, it was originally used for men’s obi, even allowing samurai to tuck their katana into the belt. However, by this time, products included women’s obi and other accessories, such as bags, fans, and more, contributing to its popularity.

At the start of the Meiji era, common people were allowed to wear the Hakata-ori and kenjo-gara patterns.

The process further progressed when the Jacquard loom was invented and later introduced to Japan by Western merchants in 1886.

Modern era

From the mid-1950s to the mid-60s, Hakata-ori went through a revival. However, in the 1960s and 1970s, people found it difficult to wear kimono and drive, so they started wearing Western clothing. Changing attitudes and lifestyles also left less and less time for traditional, time-consuming things, resulting in Hakata-ori’s shift from mass production, which had been the focus before, to high-quality production.

Nowadays, Hakata-ori products are known for their high quality and individuality. Like fashion designers, Fukuoka-based weavers push the boundaries and limits of designs, creating new designs with modern colours to appeal to younger generations.

Hakata-ori has also been designated a “traditional craft” by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.

Hakata-ori vs other regions

Hakata-ori are much thicker than textiles from other parts of Japan, largely due to the unique weaving process. 6,000 to 15,000 threads are used for the warp (lengthwise threads that are stretched and placed on the loom), with thick threads being used for the weft (crosswise threads on a loom passed over and under the warp threads) that are tightly woven together, creating a thick, resilient fabric.

Another difference is how the pattern is made. Most other textiles from other regions add the pattern with the weft. However, Hakata-ori weavers add the pattern into the warp, which created the traditional Kenjo-gara or graded patterns. On the Jacquard loom, these are made using hole-punched cards that control the pattern-creation process.

Other types of obi, being made of silk, it is also easy to tie but also come apart easily. Because it is thicker Hakata-ori obi stay tight—something notoriously difficult with smoother silk belts. When tightened, it creates a rustling sound, which has become a signature sound and one of comfort.

Types of Hakata-ori

Kenjo-gara uses long, uninterrupted stripes on the sides and in the centre of the fabric. Between these are sets of patterned stripes. The broader stripes are used in Buddhism to banish harmful energy. The thinner stripe represents the plate used in Buddhist rituals, which holds incense or flower petals.

Kenjo-gara use only five colours due to their symbolism: purple (elegance and virtue), red (happiness and prosperity), yellow (sincerity and trust), blue (honour and peace), and navy blue (wisdom and solidity).

Mon ori Hakata-ori are multi-coloured designs (e.g. designs that use more than the five colours listed above) that first appeared in the Edo period.

Making Hakata-ori

There are four main steps to creating a new piece:

Designing – the pattern and the colour of the fabric are chosen and drawn on plotting paper
Dyeing – a specialist washes the yarn in soapy water and then dyed via a boiling dyebath
Weaving preparation – the yarns are hooked onto the Jacquard loom in a way that the weaver can move the yarn up and down using foot pedals
Weaving

Even today, where much of the process is mechanised and automated, specialist workers must still check the patterns and threads to ensure high quality and production standards.

Protected Designation Trademark

Silk textiles and Japanese cloth made in Fukuoka City are protected under the “Hakata-ori” trademark. Traditionally, Hakata-ori was only made in Hakata Ward in (what is now) Fukuoka City. Nowadays, 21 other cities in the prefecture are covered under this trademark and can use the name Hakatra-ori.

In addition to traditional Japanese clothing, Hakata-ori is also used for Western clothing, bags and wallets under this trademark, “HAKATA JAPAN”.

Hakata-ori was also used in the vestments of Pope John Paul II.

Pieces also receive different types of certificates to show their authenticity and quality. A gold certificate means both the warp and weft threads are made from genuine silk. A green certificate means the warp thread is genuine silk, and the weft thread is made of silk other than genuine silk. A purple certificate means both the warp and weft threads are made of silk other than genuine silk. Finally, a blue certificate indicates that fibres other than silk, such as natural, chemical, or synthetic fibres, are used.

Jotenji Temple

Image from Fukuoka’s Official Tourist Guide

I was in Fukuoka during the “Hakata Gion Yamanasaka,” which celebrates Hakata-ori in November. Historically, merchants put aside their business affairs for the entire month and invested all their time and energy into preparing for this festival. Their wives would manage the home and their business, taking over during this time. When the celebration was over, the husbands would present their wives with a new kimono and obi to apologise for being absent for the month.

The main altar in Jotenji

The inside of the temple has many inner courtyards and gardens

Nowadays, usually for one weekend in November, designs is displayed in the Hakata Gion district and Jotenji Temple, which is linked with the creation of kenjo-gara. Apart from the front garden, Jotenji is usually closed to the public, so seeing both the temple and Hakata-ori was an additional treat.

The event, held over two days in mid-November, was designed to get the public’s opinion of new designs created that year. Visitors were given a clipboard with a survey, including a space for ranking their top five favourite designs.

It was a fantastic experience to see not only Hakata-ori, the existence of which I knew about but knew nothing about its history or production process but also this beautiful temple from 1242, which draws heavily from Chinese design inspirations and has a large rock Zen garden in the grounds.